Different customs, cuisine celebrate spring

By Barb Randall

The Lake Oswego Review, Mar 18, 2010

Holi, also known as the Festival of Colors, is the Hindu spring celebration. People throw colored powders and colored water on each other as part of the celebration.

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It’s spring – blossoms are bursting, birds are chirping, the days seem to have a more joyful lilt. It’s the universal season of renewal and rebirth and every culture honors its arrival in some manner.

It has been my good fortune this spring to learn about spring rituals of the Hindu, Jewish and Orthodox faiths from people in our community. Learning about their traditions – especially about their special feasts – has been enthralling. Soaking up a different culture is enjoyable and important.

Over the next three weeks, I will pass along what I’ve learned about each of the three religions. I’m certainly not an expert, but if I can share a glimmer of knowledge about these cultures I will have done my job.

Your neighbors have graciously shared traditional recipes that I hope you will try. You can gain a lot of perspective from eating foods of another culture.

We begin learning about the Hindu celebration of Holi, also known as the Festival of Colors.

Holi is an eight-day celebration that falls at the end of February and continues into March. As part of the celebration, people throw colored water and powders on each other, light bonfires, dance and in general, celebrate with wild abandon.

Hinduism is a diverse religion practiced primarily in India. The core belief is in Brahman, the underlying universal life force that encompasses and embodies existence. According to Hindu scriptures, one’s ignorance of the true nature of the self as one with Brahman is what traps one in the cycle of endless death and reincarnation. Thus, the highest goal of Hinduism is liberation from the karmic cycle of death and rebirth.

For millions of people who practice this religion, it is a way of life that encompasses family, society, politics, business, art and health behaviors. The sacred scriptures contain instructions on all these aspects of life and have a strong influence on art and drama. While the practices of yoga are a well-known aspect of Hinduism, family life is also considered a sacred duty.

I found the origin of Holi to be an intriguing story. Hiranyakashipu, the king of the demons, had been blessed by Brahman; he could not be killed “during day or night; inside the home or outside; not on earth or on sky; neither by man or an animal; neither by astra (weapons) or shastra (knowledge).” As a result he became arrogant and demanded that people stop worshiping other gods and pray to him.

His son, Prahlada was a devotee of Vishnu and despite threats, the son continued to pray to Vishnu. He was poisoned but the poison turned to nectar in his mouth. He was order to be trampled by elephants yet remained unharmed. He was put into a room with hungry, poisonous snakes and survived. All of Hiranyakashipu’s attempts to kill his son failed. Finally he ordered Prahlada to sit on a pyre on his sister Holika’s lap, who could not die by fire by virtue of a shawl which would prevent fire from burning the person who wore it. Prahlada readily accepted his father’s orders and prayed to Vishnu to keep him safe. When the fire started, everyone watched in amazement as the shawl flew from Holika (who then burned to death) to cover Prahlada, who survived unharmed. The burning of Holika is celebrated at Holi.

Later Vishnu came in the form of a Narashimha (who is half man and half lion) and killed Hiranyakashipu at dusk, (which is neither day or night) on the step of the porch of his house (which is neither inside the house or out) by restraining him on his lap (which is neither in the sky or on the earth) and mauling him with his claws (neither astra or shastra).

My husband Mark and I were invited to celebrate Holi at East India Co. Grill and Bar in downtown Portland. Our hosts were Prakash Reddy, the restaurant’s owner and Pradeep Chandrana, the restaurant’s culinary director. Both are Lake Oswego residents. The evening was enchanting.

“As one of our major Hindu festivals, Holi originated as the celebration of good over evil,” said Pradeep. “We love to introduce our traditions to our non-Indian customers as well and offer new flavor combinations – and, of course, colorful dishes.”

Indian cuisine is very diverse – the country is large, its languages many and each of the 28 states is unique in its traditions and its food. The common thread to the cuisine is the use of numerous spices to create flavor and aroma.

Spices commonly used in Indian cuisine are coriander, cumin, dry red chilies, turmeric, chili powder, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, garam masala and aniseed or fennel.

The menu for Holi that Pradeep had designed was a colorful selection of fragrant and delicious dishes.

We started the meal with delicate rice crackers with a sweet tamarind sauce and beautiful green mint and chili sauce. Then came heavenly Tandoori Grilled Vegetables (red and green peppers, broccoli and scallions) with a subtle smokey flavor. I assumed they had been grilled over wood fire or in the wood burning tandoor. Next we had a zesty Roasted Beet, Onion and Micro Green Salad.

Following our starters we were served Dahi Bhalla, a soft lentil doughnut in spiced yoghurt. This was served very cold and the doughnut was round like a meatball with a texture similar to cornbread. The spiced yogurt sauce was fabulous – our server told us it had a bit of cayenne pepper.

Next came the entrees. Our plates were portrait ready with a perfect pyramid of rice on one corner and a perfect half sphere of Methi Aloo (a dish of new potatoes and fenugreek) opposite it. Saag Corn (fresh spinach, corn, cumin, ginger and green chilies) was served family style in a larger bowl. This dish had a wonderfully subtle heat that grew pleasantly in the mouth. An otherworldly dish called Kodi Pulusu of pot-roasted chicken, coconut, homemade yogurt and poppy seeds was served from another bowl. The fresh naan was total comfort food – it would be worth the investment in a tandoor oven to eat that daily!

Our dessert was a delightful and seemingly low calorie Gajjar Ka Halwa. Made of shredded carrots steeped in milk and saffron and sprinkled with almonds, I was sure it was an ambrosia meant for the gods.

Holi is celebrated every year at the end of February – mark it on the calendar so you don’t miss out next year. And in the meantime, make a point to get to East India Co. and sample Indian cuisine for yourself. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, Happy Hour Monday through Saturday 5 to 7 p.m. and an Early Prix Fix dinner Monday through Thursday from 5 to 7 p.m. I guarantee you will leave East India Co. pleasantly full and with a greater appreciation of the Indian and Hindu culture.

Pradeep shares his recipe for Chicken Masala so you can bring a little of India into your home. Try it tonight!

Bon Appetit – Eat something wonderful!

Chicken Masala

Makes 4 to 6 servings